Carrots

The carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus)

The carrot is a root vegetable, typically orange in colour. However, purple, black, red, white, and yellow cultivars exist, all domesticated forms of the wild carrot, Daucus carota, native to Europe and Southwestern Asia. 

Appearance

Daucus carota is a biennial plant. 

In the first year, its rosette of leaves produces large amounts of sugars stored in the taproot to provide energy for the plant to flower in the second year.

As the plant grows, the bases of the seed leaves near the taproot are pushed apart. The stem, located just above the ground, is compressed, and the internodes are not distinct. When the seed stalk elongates for flowering, the tip of the stem narrows and becomes pointed, and the stem extends upward to become a highly branched inflorescence up to 60–200 cm (20–80 in) tall. 

Most of the taproot consists of a pulpy outer cortex (phloem) and an inner core (xylem). 

High-quality carrots have a large proportion of cortex compared to the core. Although an utterly xylem-free carrot is not possible, some cultivars have small and deeply pigmented cores; the taproot can appear to lack a core when the colour of the cortex and core are similar in intensity. 

Taproots are typically long and conical, although cylindrical and nearly spherical cultivars are available. The root diameter can range from 1 cm (3⁄8 in) to 10 cm (4 in) at the widest part. The root length ranges from 5 to 50 cm (2 to 20 in), although most are between 10 and 25 cm (4 and 10 in). 

Flowers change sex in their development, so the stamens release their pollen before the stigma of the same flower is receptive. The arrangement is centripetal, meaning the oldest flowers are near the edge, and the youngest flowers are in the centre. 

Varieties grown

The domestic carrot has been selectively for its greatly enlarged, more palatable, less woody-textured taproot.

Carrot cultivars can be grouped into two broad classes, eastern carrots and western carrots. (However, several novelty cultivars have been bred for particular characteristics.) 

  1. "Eastern" carrots were domesticated in Persia (probably in the lands of modern-day Iran and Afghanistan within West Asia) during the 10th century, or possibly earlier.  

    Specimens of the "eastern" carrot that survive to the present day are commonly purple or yellow and often have branched roots. The purple colour common in these carrots comes from anthocyanin pigments. 
     
  2. The western carrot emerged in the Netherlands in the 17th century. The orange colour results from abundant carotenes in these cultivars.

Their root shape commonly classifies western carrot cultivars. The four general types are:

Chantenay carrots

Although the roots are shorter than other cultivars, they have vigorous foliage and greater girth, broad in the shoulders and tapering towards a blunt, rounded tip. They store well, have a pale-coloured core and are mainly used for processing. Cultivars include 'Carson Hybrid' and 'Red Cored Chantenay'Danvers carrots. These have strong foliage, and the roots are longer than Chantenay types, and they have a conical shape with a well-defined shoulder, tapering to a point. They are somewhat shorter than Imperator cultivars but more tolerant of heavy soil conditions. Danvers cultivars store well and are used both fresh and for processing. Cultivars include 'Danvers Half Long' and 'Danvers 126'.

Imperator carrots. 

This cultivar has vigorous foliage, high sugar content, and long and slender roots, tapering to a pointed tip. Imperator types are the most widely cultivated by commercial growers.

Cultivars include 'Imperator 58' and 'Sugarsnax Hybrid'.

Nantes carrots. 

These have sparse foliage, are cylindrical, short with a more blunt tip than Imperator types, and attain high yields in various conditions. The skin is easily damaged, and the core is intensely pigmented. They are brittle, high in sugar and store less well than other types. Cultivars include 'Nelson Hybrid', 'Scarlet Nantes' and 'Sweetness Hybrid'.

History

Both written history and molecular genetic studies indicate that the domestic carrot originated in Central Asia.

The plant is depicted and described in the 6th-century AD copy of the Greek physician Dioscorrides' 1st-century pharmacopoeia of herbs and medicines. Three different types of carrots are defined, and the text states that "the root can be cooked and eaten."

The plant was introduced into Spain by the Moors in the 8th century. In the 10th century, roots from West Asia, India and Europe were purple.

"Carrots were first sown at Beckington in Somersetshire. Some very old Man there [in 1668] did remember their first bringing hither.

European settlers introduced the carrot to colonial America in the 17th century.

Outwardly purple carrots, still orange on the inside, were sold in British stores beginning in 2002. 

Growth

Fast-growing cultivars mature within three months (90 days) of sowing the seed, while slower-maturing cultivars need a month longer (120 days). 

Carrots are grown from seed and can take up to four months (120 days) to mature, but most cultivars mature within 70 to 80 days under the right conditions.

They grow best in full sun but tolerate some shade. The optimum temperature is 16 to 21 °C (61 to 70 °F).

 The ideal soil is deep, loose and well-drained, sandy or loamy, with a pH of 6.3 to 6.8.

In raised beds and containers, I add pearlite to keep the soil loose and well-drained. 

Fertilizer should be applied according to soil type because the crop requires low nitrogen levels, moderate phosphate and high potash. 

In my raised beds, in addition to the pearlite layer, I add a layer of bone meal for the phosphorus to stimulate root growth, with epsum salts for the magnesium to stimulate leaf growth, covered by potting soil. I add a thin layer of compost to cover the seeds after sowing to limit the amount of nitrogen to support early leaf growth. 

Rich or rocky soils should be avoided, as these will cause the roots to become hairy and misshapen.

Irrigation is applied when needed to keep the soil moist. 

Carrots are easy to grow from seeds in your garden, a planter box, or even in a large pot. As long as you appropriately prepare the soil before planting, your carrots will thrive in almost any climate.

Choosing a Variety

There are six main categories of carrots that contain several subtypes.[1]

·         Chantenay. Chantenay carrots grow five to six inches into the soil and can be grown in most soil types, though they prefer rich, heavy soil conditions.

·         Ball-type. Also known as "Thumbelina," Ball-type carrots are highly similar to Chantenay, though they do not grow quite as long.[2]

·         Danvers. Danvers carrots are large block-shaped carrots that need heavy, nutrient-rich soil to thrive. The soil does not have to be deep, however.

·         Nantes. Originally from France, Nantes carrots are cylindrical carrots with rounded tips that grow between six and nine inches deep. Like Danvers, they thrive in shallow rich soil.

·         Imperator. This variety, commonly found at the grocery store, needs deep, airy soil. Imperator carrots are characterized by their particularly long, spindly roots that hang on to the tip of the carrot. They are very particular about their soil conditions, so make sure your soil is deep, rich, airy, and has good drainage before attempting to plant this variety.

·         Amsterdam: These are a small variety, about 3 inches (76 mm) long, making them ideal for shallow or poorer soil conditions. They can also be harvested earlier.

2.      \

 

Seed type

 Carrot seeds come either raw, coated with a layer of bentonite clay, or treated with a fungicide.

Clay-covered seeds are better at retaining moisture during germination than seeds that do not have an applied coating on them. Additionally, coated seeds are easier to handle, and thus you can control where they are spaced better than non-coated seeds.

Accurate spacing eliminates the need to thin plants later in the growing process.

 

Garden requirements

 Though the full sun is best, carrots can handle some shade as they are a cool-weather crop.

 

The most important factor when it comes to growing carrots is making sure that the soil is well-loosened. Use a shovel to loosen the soil in your planting area exceptionally thoroughly.

 

Soil to be fluffy rather than hard and clay-like.

Carrots do well in raised beds because strict soil conditions are required which is possible in raised beds/.

Carrots require slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.8 and 6.8.

 

Fertilizer

 Mix in about four inches of organic compost into your soil, which will help the seeds germinate in the soil and encourage a hardy production.

 

Carrots like a cool climate. In a Mediterranean climate, seeds can be sown in the fall or winter, making sure that the soil is well tilled and loose before deciding to plant.

 

Seeds can be grown in a container.  The process for growing carrots in containers is similar to growing in the ground.  You need to make sure that the container is deep enough to hold the carrots and allow the roots to expand.

 

Either spread the seeds at random or plant in rows. If planting in rows, space the seeds about 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) apart in a shallow trench, no more than 12 inch (1.3 cm) deep. Space each row of carrots 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) apart from each other.

 

Cover the seeds with about 12 inch (1.3 cm) of rich soil. You can use compost, planting soil mix, and even mix in a little bit of sand, especially in warmer areas. Sand helps support the growing seedlings.

 

Monitor your seedlings. 

The seeds will take about one to three weeks to sprout, depending on the temperature of the soil. The colder the soil, the longer the seeds take to germinate.

 

Water the carrots very carefully after planting. 

The seeds are light and fragile and can easily wash away if you water too much or too vigorously.

1.     

Image titled Grow Pole Beans Step 2

 

Taking Care of Carrot Plants

Keep the soil moist at all times. If you are in a hot climate, this means watering your carrot plants daily. Just be sure not to wash away the fragile seeds or harm the sprouting seedlings with too much water pressure.  I use an automated irrigation system.

Apply mulch to sprouting seedlings. Add a few inches of a leaf, bark, or hay mulch to the ground around the seedlings to seal in the moisture.[11]

·         Pull out any weeds that develop through the mulch by hand. Do so gently so as not to disturb the carrot roots.

·         Be sure to cover any part of the carrot itself that begins to grow out of the ground with mulch. If the carrot crown is exposed to the air, it will become bitter.

Thin the carrots.3

 When the tops of the carrots reach two-inch, carrots can be thinned to one inch apart by pulling the small carrot plants out of the ground.

This reduces crowding and allows the individual carrots enough room to grow and expand their roots.

After another two weeks, passes and the carrot tops have grown several inches high, thin the plants again to three to four inches apart. Be sure not to skip this step, as crowded carrots will not grow straight and may not develop fully.

Harvest your carrots. The bigger and longer they grow, the sweeter and juicier they become. However, you can pluck and eat them as soon as they grow big enough to eat, which usually takes anywhere from two to three months after planting. You can tell if a carrot is ready to harvest when the crown is sticking slightly out of the ground and the diameter of the carrot is about 34 inch (1.9 cm) across.

·         Hand-pull the carrots from the base of the greenery to avoid damaging any roots. Grab the bottom of the greenery and wiggle the carrot around before pulling straight up.

·         Water the planting area before you pull the carrots up to loosen the soil and make it easier to pull the carrots without damaging the roots.

After sprouting, the crop is thinned and spaced to 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 in) and weeded to prevent competition beneath the soil.

Companion planting

Carrots benefit from strongly scented companion plants. The pungent odour of onions, leeks and chives help repel the carrot root fly. Other vegetables that team well with carrots include lettuce, tomatoes and radishes, and herbs rosemary, coriander and sage.

Storage

Carrots can be stored for several months in the refrigerator or overwinter in a moist, cool place. For long term storage, unwashed carrots can be placed in a bucket between layers of sand, a 50/50 mix of sand and wood shavings, or soil. A temperature range of 0 to 4 °C (32 to 40 °F) and 98% humidity is best.

Culinary

The most commonly eaten part of the plant is the taproot, although the stems and leaves are also eaten. 

Carrots can be eaten in a variety of ways. 

The roots contain high quantities of alpha and beta-carotene and are an excellent vitamin K and B6 source. 

However, only 3 per cent of the beta carotene in raw carrots is released during digestion: this can be improved to 39% by pulping, cooking and adding cooking oil.

Alternatively, they may be chopped and boiled, fried or steamed, and cooked in soups and stews, as well as baby and pet foods. 

A well-known dish is carrots julienne. Together with onion and celery, carrots are one of the primary vegetables used to make various broths.

Carrot salads are usually made with grated carrots with a seasoning of mustard seeds and green chillies popped in hot oil. 

Carrots can also be cut into thin strips and added to rice, forming part of a dish of mixed roast vegetables or blended with tamarind to make chutney. 

The sweetness of carrots allows the vegetable to be used in some fruit-like roles. Grated carrots are used in carrot cakes.

Highly excessive consumption over some time can result in carotenemia, yellow-orange discolouration of the skin caused by a build-up of carotenoids.

Nutrition

Raw carrots are 88% water, 9% carbohydrates, 0.9% protein, 2.8% dietary beta-carotene, which does not help people to see in the dark unless they suffer 

from vitamin A deficiency

The British public during WWII generally believed that eating carrots would help them see better at night, and in 1942 there was a 100,000-ton surplus of carrots from the extra production.